Top 20 things to do in Toronto!

Jane and hubby Roger’s top 20 things to do when visiting Toronto!

I’m an NLP coach and travel to downtown Toronto around 4 times a year to promote my NLP services, to write and to visit our lovely son who lives/works there as well as lots of other super relatives.  It’s a very accessible city, both in terms of transport and in terms of the friendly welcome – so get stuck in and feel at home. One tip – you can’t judge the quality of shops, restaurants (and people come to that) from the outside in Toronto. In the UK it’s easier to do so (should you want to…!) but in Toronto, we’re constantly surprised and shocked, eg a tiny doorway leads to a huge shop…a scruffy exterior belies a charming eating place inside. There’s a life lesson there, methinks. Anyway, if you’re travelling over to Toronto and want our two pennies’ worth (sorry two cents’ worth)…this is what I (and husband) do – almost every time we go over!

1. If you’re there for a Saturday – head over to St Lawrence Market around 9.00am …sample the freebies like mustard with warm bacon nibbles, melt in the mouth parma ham, tangy cheese bites…buy a peameal bacon roll upstairs or a massive aubergine/tomato concoction downstairs (even with two hands, I couldn’t grasp this sandwich). Wander the stalls, buy picnic ingredients from famous bagels to 3’ crab claws and then go across the road to the farmer’s market bit too.  Last year I bought a 5′ long bundle of pussy-willow sticks (those furry catkins) and nearly took someone’s eye out in the street on the way home.

2. Even if you hate sport (which I sort of do in the UK though I’ll watch horsejumping, in the hopes of seeing someone fall off at the water jump), but in Toronto it’s huge fun to catch a game at the amazing Roger’s Centre…and there are a few restaurants there that you can eat in and watch the game at the same time. Join in the national anthem, the Mexican wave and the celebrations when the home team scores – all part of the enjoyment. The ice hockey games are fast moving and thrilling too – but you’d better hope you’re lucky enough to get free tickets from a friend, or start saving now!

Things to do (like catch a ballgame) when visiting Toronto by Jane Malyon

3. Grab some of the delicious foods on offer at the Richtree Market in the very photographable BCE Place building. Wander round this choose-whatever-you-want food place until you’re dribbling; everything is enticing and delicious. It’s good for picky eaters and perfect for taking the children to, too – but the only downside is that the restaurant won’t let you take photos. Meanies

4. If the weather’s fair or good – grab the ferry and go over to the island for a mooch. Hire bikes, stop at a café and also take photos of Toronto from that side of the water. There are also dinner cruises available to take on the lake – not tried one yet, but plan to soon.

Visiting the island is one of Jane's tips of things to do in Toronto

5. Girls (and some boys too!): why not start a new holiday hobby? Visit the numerous bead and jewellery-making equipment shops in Queen St West..not far from Spadina….and buy everything you need to make fabulous necklaces etc, inexpensively. You can even get some free advice if the shop’s not too busy or take a 2 hour Sunday course on how to make jewellery. Buy beads to take home to the other gals in your life….and if you need another girly activity and you’re on a budget, get an inexpensive pedicure and manicure (at half the UK price) on King Street I believe….very nice, though it can take about 2 hours! Ooh, I find Toronto good for make up shopping too – and also visit Lulu Lemon Athletica for a trendy jogging/keep fit outfit, which they’ll adjust to your leg length free of charge, if you can spare a few days.

6. Another bargain activity (actually, free really) is to head for the unusual jutty out box design of Chapters on Richmond West and John, I think. I grab the latest cook books and curl up on a cosy chair by the window and enjoy the moment to myself. There’s a coffee shop inside the book store too – and a very cool cinema next door as well (makes our local UK Odeon look dull and predictable).

7. We usually check out what’s on at the theatre in Toronto – because it’s convenient and fun and a lot easier to get to and from, than heading up to London, UK. The top musicals etc are all on offer and plenty of culture choices to consider too. Music and comedy are other great options for your evening’s pleasure – but we’re too staid to get stuck in there, being boring ol’ Brits (but our 25 year old loves the Drum and Bass scene).

8. We absolutely adore the street cars (red retro-looking trams) with their bargain one-token payment system, no matter how long your journey. They’re cool, fun and a rather excellent way to get around…and you see a slice of local life, sometimes VERY close hand during rush hour when an impossible number of people squish into a tiny space!

Things to do in Toronto - catch a street car all the way to the Beaches

We like to catch the Neville Park street car from Spadina along Queen Street and ride it right to the end of the line at The Beaches. We eat in a fab restaurant beginning with V (can never quite remember) on the right side about 20 yards ahead, just after you get off at the last stop. It’s great value with delicious food including fab Eggs Benedict (though horribly steep steps to the loos downstairs – bring your crampons for climbing back up) … and then we buy an extravagant little iced cake at the muffin shop over the road, for nearly the same price as the brekky! However, they’re decadent and cute cup-cakes and we take them onto the beach….come snow or sun…and walk as far as we can before the muffins make us stop and eat them. Then we wander back up to the main street area to catch the street car back again…all the time, me noticing out of the window, loads of gorgeous, trendy shops near The Beaches, that I mean to come back to explore.

9. Most trips to Canada, we do head for the Tower. It calls to us. We love the CN Tower, especially lit up at night. In fact, it’s the equivalent of a spectacular, giant and colourful lava lamp and I can see it from my pillow in my Toronto bedroom. You understand, it’s MY tower. Alas, the cost of rising up to the viewing decks is a bit ‘ouch’ but the trick is to book a meal up at the very nice 360 restaurant (even if you only have a main course…though we usually have the 3 course special) – because the price of the meal includes the cost of getting up there to view; so that makes the outing great value AND you bypass the queues in a VIP sort of way. Our favourite time to visit is just before dusk and then you see the whole city (as the restaurant gently revolves round) by day and night, all in the one trip. Delicious beef – oh my! However, if the tower is not your thing, then get your overview of the city at other awesome high locations like Canoe. Save up first!

The iconic CN Tower, one of the must-see places to visit in Toronto

10. Chinatown – I’ve never been to Hong Kong or China …but visiting Chinatown can be very immersing! I’m fascinated though cautious as I go round the supermarkets, smelling unusual foods and watching the locals buy live crabs, just popping them casually in their baskets – and sometimes seeing the crabs trying to escape out the top. You can buy things in there that defy description. I’d love to buy one of the dried full sized octopus they sell to bring home to my friends, but I’m not sure what customs would say. Anyway, after that, follow the local Chinese people to the restaurant of their choice. My pal and I did and were given a menu that was completely written in Chinese. We bravely and ignorantly pointed to a few random items for our choice, but the kind waitress shook her head and assured us we wouldn’t like it. Puzzled, we asked why….so she went and fetched a bowl of steaming intestines to show us what we’d just ordered.  Eww. Indeed, we weren’t brave enough – she was quite right – but by all accounts they were delicious because everyone else around us were chomping it right down! Personally, the Peking Duck alternative that the girl brought us, suited me down to the ground!

11. The posh bits. I do like to head up to the Yorkville sort of areas to browse the uber-expensive Chanel-type shops and frighten my hubby. We like the Wholefoods restaurant and market in the mall there. I also really like Williams-Sonoma, a gorgeous cooking equipment shop – and adore their table settings and the in-store demonstrations, if my timing’s lucky. The book selections are nice too, very browsable. Pottery Barn is nice to look in as well, for interior design thoughts on a medium+ budget.

12. Union Station is worth more than a peek – and the Royal York hotel opposite (which was once the biggest hotel in the British Empire) is special for Afternoon Tea. Evocative of a grand past era. I think our toasted crumpets were served with a lavender honey butter – mmm. I also believe that the hotel have their own beehives on the roof. As you do.

13. If you have a car available, then Niagara is a must, along with Niagara on the Lake (picture perfect, George Bernard Shaw obsessed town)…

Stunning Niagara Falls, a must-see when you're visiting Toronto

or alternatively, head out to another pretty place like Elora for lunch by the watermill and then browse the quaint shops and bump into some Menonite people (with similarities to the Amish – and wearing clothes a la the film Witness). Cue Harrison Ford and that haunting music. Actually, the Halloween decorations in Elora are c-r-a-z-y spooky for small children!

Another option if you have a car is the McMichael Canadian art collection (where you’ll find out all about the famous group of 7), again set in an interesting and pretty town. Nice. Head further north to the Muskoka lakes if you get a chance or an invitation too. Oh, lovely Fall colours, gorgeous lakes, and the good life for some. Sit in an iconic Adirondack chair by the water. If you’re as fortunate as us to have relatives with their own places on the lakes or near the ski hills, thank your lucky stars.

Things to do when visiting Toronto - hire a car and visit gorgeous places like the Muskoka lakes. Wow.

14. Toronto has its fair share of excellent museums (check out the funky ROM), art galleries (eg the AGO), historic houses and similar tourist attractions (including a great zoo). If that’s your bag, then you’re in luck. Many attractions have cheaper or free entry towards the end of the day on specific days of the week.

15. Toronto is a great city to witness and even join in some large scale public events. We particularly like to catch Toronto at New Year and head out to the streets for the Nathan Phillips Square free entertainment…and also we love Halloween. Coming from England, it’s er, a tad unusual to see grown men going to work with an axe apparently buried in their head…and to have our Canadian bank offer us pumpkin-shaped cookies. If you catch a train out to Royal York and check out the rather elegant English-inspired suburbs, you’ll find houses covered in giant cobwebs and 10’ spiders. I heard a story that a lady had hung herself from her front garden tree…but for days everyone assumed it was a Halloween decoration. Wonder if that is true. What is true is that I’d never seen so many dogs dressed up in Halloween outfits before I went to Toronto; fascinating. We keep trying to be in the city to catch Nuit Blanche, TIFF (film festival) and also the various parades including Gay Pride – but haven’t got our diary sorted properly for that yet. Did catch the St Patrick’s Day parade last year though – nearly as large scale as the New York one. Made me smile.

Things to do when visiting Toronto like hire a car at Halloween to see the decorations at Elora. Scary!

16. Out of the various neighbourhoods (Toronto is ‘divided’ into areas like Greek Town, Little India etc with local peoples and restaurants accordingly), we do have a soft spot for Little Italy, mainly because I’m a sucker for trees lit up with thousands of pealights at night. Awww. So grab some great Italian food and a little bit of Italian spirit. Other districts we’ve yet to explore better, but will do so in due course! If the street car route isn’t straightforward, we catch a cab – they’re not extortionate.

17. Ice skating in public is another thing to try. It’s what I imagine I’d do in a movie of my life where I’d head down to City Hall, hair flowing, eating an apple and casually clutching fresh pink tulips and I’d stop off to do an effortless triple salko (or whatever they are) to the delight of the crowd. Of course, the reality is that I’m worried about my ankles and falling over, so I just enjoy watching the others skate in the open air (especially the little school children – sweet). There’s also a rink down at the Harbourfront, and we like to wander along there to see what’s going on, near the lake shore.

18. The Eaton Centre initially took our breath away when we first visited. Not so much these days (though I still love the flying sculpture), but we tend to go here at least once per trip. Generally speaking, the higher the floor, the higher the prices. Catch the fountain show down on the lower level. I like it!

19. We find the concept of P A T H fascinating (miles and miles of underground streets with restaurants and shops, providing below-street-level access to hotels and malls etc, without freezing your you-know-whats off in the winter. The reality is that it’s all a bit confusing down there. I keep meaning to leave a trail of crumbs to find my way back.

20. OK. I know this last one should perhaps be Exhibition Place or Kensington Market – but I, personally, just don’t ‘get it’. All the tourist books rave about these areas, but the charms pass me by (so far). Therefore for us, sad as we are, it’s back to our favourite activity of food shopping and restaurant eating! So many choices, too little time. The Japanese restaurants are wonderful (and some are cheapy cheap yet very good)…the salad and health food options are terrific….and the number of places to have delicious fruit/vegetable juices of your choice, are brill. We even love the Chicken Noodle Soup at Tim Horton’s (inexpensive). And then why not try going to a really big supermarket like Loblaws and spend time noticing the differences between UK and Canadian shopping. Allow at least an hour – some of these stores are enormous! The freshly-made muffins and the mile high piles of fruit always entice me – along with the garish neon-coloured cakes. They will usually ice them with a message of your choice at no extra charge. Our icing will say: “we love Toronto”. Hope you do too – let me know, eh?!

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